The NYMR holds a lot of fond memories for me. I have been visiting since I was six months old — my grandparents had a holiday cottage near the line before eventually moving there full time in retirement. My grandfather worked as a driver for the railway and ran the shed shop, a fundraising store inside the engine sheds at Grosmont Motive Power Department. Having spent so much time there, and having built the largest online UK steam locomotive platform, I feel I am well placed to review this railway thoroughly.
The NYMR features in our guide to the 5 best heritage railways in the UK — but it deserves a deeper look than a list allows. So here it is.
The railway is the jewel of the north, and it lives up to that name. Stretching 24 miles across the breathtaking North Yorkshire Moors, the scenery is something to behold — and with the changing seasons, no two journeys are ever quite the same. My grandad always said the moors felt like a different place with each season, and he was right.
The locomotive roster alone is enough to get any rail fan excited. From standard tanks to the mighty 9F, there really is something for everyone. Recently, with a bit of forward thinking from the railway, the American locomotive Omaha has been converted to oil firing to combat rising coal costs and the risk of lineside fires from embers — a smart move that keeps the railway sustainable without compromising the experience.
Quick Facts - North Yorkshire Moors Railway
| Line length | 24 miles (18 miles heritage + 6 miles mainline to Whitby) |
| Stations | Pickering, Newtondale Holt, Levisham, Goathland, Grosmont, Whitby |
| Traction | Steam (diesel on Whitby mainline section) |
| Best for | Families, enthusiasts, walkers, coastal days out |
| Nearest towns | Pickering (south), Whitby (north) |
| Website | nymr.co.uk |
Pickering - The Southern Terminus
Starting at the furthest terminus, Pickering is an excellent little town well worth a visit. This is where the NYMR is officially headquartered — though I would argue the unofficial headquarters is the engine sheds at Grosmont. The 1930s-themed station is stunning, and there is plenty to do in the town itself. The Beck Isle Museum gives you a fascinating look at rural life in the area, Dalby Forest is brilliant for walking, and Pickering Castle — built by the Normans in the 13th century — is always worth a look if you have the time.
Don't just arrive, board the train and leave. Give Pickering an hour.
Levisham - The Hidden Stop
If you catch the train at Pickering, the first stop heading north is Levisham station — styled to 1912 and occasionally open for tea and treats on special events. Charming as it is, the real star nearby is the Hole of Horcum. If you're traversing the moors by car you'll drive straight past it, and you absolutely shouldn't. It's a vast natural amphitheatre, four hundred feet deep, that draws walkers and hang gliders alike. Local legend goes that Wade the Giant scooped a handful of earth and threw it at his wife during an argument — I was always convinced it was a meteor crater. Regardless of your beliefs, it's something you won't regret stopping for.
Goathland - Heartbeat, Harry Potter and Stunning Walks
Goathland station is one of the most recognised in Britain — even by people who've never consciously noticed it. It appeared as Hogsmeade in Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone, and long before the wizards arrived it was immortalised as Aidensfield in the beloved Sunday evening drama Heartbeat.
A personal note: my grandfather drove the locomotive filmed crossing Glenfinnan Viaduct in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. He got around a bit.
The Heartbeat connection runs deep in the village — Scripps Garage is still there, most of the local shops sell merchandise from the show, and you can visit all the familiar spots from the series. There are plenty of places for a cup of tea and a snack, and the walks around Goathland are among the finest on the whole moors.
Grosmont - The Heart of the Railway
This is my heartland, so bear with me — there's a lot to say.
The second you step off the train at Grosmont you feel as though you've been transported to the 1950s. My grandad always used to joke that Titanic had only just come out in cinemas there. The station is still painted in the original LNER colours and the shops still have their vintage signs.
Where to Eat and Drink in Grosmont
The CO-OP is great for supplies if you're making a weekend of it and The Station Tavern does excellent pub food. If you think there's no nightlife in a village this size, you'd be wrong — the Crossing Club offers a rotating selection of ales, good company, and a log fire in the colder months. It was built by my grandfather, my uncle, my father, and a team of railway volunteers as a familiar watering hole for railway men after a long day's work. It remains exactly that.
Grosmont Engine Sheds - What to Expect
Take the path that runs parallel to the line, cross the bridge, and head down toward the sheds. You'll pass through a long tunnel originally built for horse-drawn carts before the full-size railway ever existed. At the end of it you'll find Grosmont Motive Power Department — where the engines are stabled, blown down, fired up and filled with coal. There's a daily schedule showing which locomotives are running that day. It was my job to put those boards out in the morning when helping my grandad at the shed shop, which you can find up a set of stairs in the shed, full of rail relate paraphernalia for sale. You can get a good look inside the sheds, and if you walk around further you'll find the giant coal hopper, dismantled and rebuilt by hand by volunteers when the NYMR was first established as a heritage line.
The North Yorkshire Moors Railway Pullman
For something altogether more special, the NYMR operates the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Pullman — a luxury dining experience running between Grosmont and Pickering and back. A three course meal served aboard a moving steam train, with the North Yorkshire Moors rolling past the windows. It's the kind of experience that turns a railway visit into a genuine occasion — perfect for a birthday, anniversary, or simply an excuse to do something memorable. Booking in advance is essential as places fill up quickly.
Walking the Esk Valley from Grosmont
The journey doesn't have to end at the sheds. You can walk the line for quite a while down through the Esk Valley, past the iconic row of cottages where my grandparents lived. Continue further and you eventually reach Beck Hole — a tiny, quiet village with a little pub that keeps walkers refreshed, sitting right on the river where you can watch the local wildlife pass by. Kingfishers if you're lucky and patient enough.
Grosmont falls on Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk, with around six thousand people completing it each year. Julia Bradbury filmed an excellent programme on the route, in which my grandfather also appeared. I told you he got around.
Whitby - The End of the Line
The Whitby run is not part of the original heritage line and came much later, adding an extra six miles to the journey. Because it runs on the mainline, only Class 1 locomotives can operate it — so a diesel often takes over at Grosmont for the final stretch. It's a stunning piece of line in its own right and gives you a view of Whitby you simply don't get when travelling by car.
Whitby Abbey and the 199 Steps
If you're fit enough and brave enough to tackle the 199 steps up to Whitby Abbey, you'll be rewarded with an incredible piece of ancient architecture and some of the finest views of the bay anywhere in the north. Take a coat if it's not summer — the wind up there is not subtle.
Where to Eat in Whitby
Whitby is filled with old pubs, quaint shops and little markets. An arcade by the sea keeps the kids entertained and boat tours are available if you're that way inclined. The main reason we went as a family was the fish and chips — Trenchers was our family favourite, a proper dine-in chip shop rather than a takeaway, and absolutely worth the wait for a table.
Robin Hood's Bay
If the weather's good, the picturesque fishing village of Robin Hood's Bay is only a short drive away and offers a brilliant stretch of coastline for a beach day.
The Verdict
The North Yorkshire Moors Railway offers more than just steam trains — the whole family can get something out of it. The scenery is breathtaking, the trains are big and loud, and there is good food aplenty. Every station has its own character, every season looks different, and there are layers to this railway that most people never discover.
I'm biased. I'll admit that freely. But I've visited dozens of heritage railways across this country and the NYMR stands apart every time.
A solid 10 out of 10.
Frequently Asked Questions - North Yorkshire Moors Railway
How long is the North Yorkshire Moors Railway? The heritage section runs 18 miles from Pickering to Grosmont. With the mainline extension to Whitby the full journey covers 24 miles.
Does the NYMR run to Whitby? Yes — the railway connects with the national network at Grosmont for services into Whitby. Only Class 1 locomotives can operate on the mainline section, so a diesel often completes the final six miles.
What stations does the NYMR stop at? The main stations are Pickering, Newtondale Holt (by request only), Levisham, Goathland, Grosmont and Whitby. Each has its own distinct character and is worth time in its own right.
Was the NYMR used in Harry Potter? Goathland station appeared as Hogsmeade in Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone. Glenfinnan Viaduct in Scotland — not on the NYMR — was used for the flying car scene in Chamber of Secrets.
What is the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Pullman? The NYMR Pullman is a luxury dining experience running between Grosmont and Pickering. A three course meal is served on board a steam-hauled train. Booking in advance is strongly recommended.
What's the best time of year to visit the NYMR? Autumn is exceptional — the moors turn an extraordinary colour and the light is remarkable. Summer is busiest with the fullest timetable. Winter services are reduced but atmospheric, particularly around Christmas.
Where should I eat near the NYMR? Trenchers in Whitby for fish and chips. The Station Tavern in Grosmont for pub food. The pub at Beck Hole after a walk through the Esk Valley. The Crossing Club in Grosmont for ales and a proper local atmosphere.
Is the NYMR suitable for families? Absolutely. The railway appeals to all ages and the surrounding area — Dalby Forest, the beaches at Whitby and Robin Hood's Bay, Goathland village — gives families plenty to do beyond the trains.
How do I get to the North Yorkshire Moors Railway? Pickering is the southern starting point, accessible from the A169 and A170. Whitby has a mainline rail connection. Most visitors drive and park at Pickering or Grosmont, then travel the line and return by train.
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Written by Alex Fletcher — creator of Fletch on Steam, the UK's largest steam locomotive platform online. Follow along on Instagram and TikTok @fletchonsteam
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